Essay finished, thank goodness. As per usual, it was cutting the buggering thing down that took the time – art history just sort of spews out of me in a gushy, adjective-riddled fountain of merde. If I ever get around to writing a book, I’m going to need a ruthless editor…
So, as I’ve been too busy for shopping, another “Oh gawd there’s nothing to eat” dish today. But this, I think, is likely to be the most elegant store-cupboard dish I’ll ever make. It’s a deceptively simple chilled soup, based around a stale bread and almond base. Of course it relies on good ingredients, particularly the best olive oil you can get your hands on and proper bread that was toothsome, not pappy, to begin with. But if you have those in the house (and if you don’t, may I suggest a rethink of priorities?) then this is not only easy, but delicious and rather impressive to boot. You just need to add a handful of natural, unpeeled almonds, a splash of good vinegar and a bit of fresh green to contrast – an apple, finely sliced fennel, celery or some green grapes.
This comes via Hugh Fearnley-Whittinsall in the Guardian who noted that this is the ancient forbear of the tomatoey gazpacho that we know today, and may even have Roman roots. He adds a clove of raw garlic or two, but I can’t do it – the thought of garlic seeping out of my pores in the Bahamian humidity is just not on…
White gazpacho Adapted from Hugh Fearnley-Whittingsall
Serves two
- A chunk of stale white good bread, about 100g without crusts
- A handful of unpeeled, unsalted natural almonds, about 80g
- Extra virgin olive oil, 110ml
- Good vinegar – I used cider, but white wine, sherry or champagne work too
- A small bunch of seedless white grapes (or see above for alternatives)
Cut the crusts off the bread, break into chunks and soak with cold water in a bowl for 10 minutes while you get on with the rest of the soup.
Put a small pan of water on to boil, and when it simmers drop the almonds in for about 30 seconds. Drain, run under the cold tap and then peel.
Process these until in a fine powder. Once the bread is soaked, drain out the water and add the bread and half a teaspoon of salt and process these too. Gradually add in the olive oil in a thin stream until it’s all incorporated. Taste and add teaspoons of vinegar and more salt to taste. If the soup is still very thick, thin it down with a little cold water until it is as runny as double cream.
Pass through a sieve to smooth out the texture (discarding any chunky bits of almonds that remain behind) and chill thoroughly.
When it comes time to serve, check the consistency again (I needed to add a little more water), ladle into bowls and arrange a few halved grapes on top. Put the rest of the halved grapes for people to add at the table.
One thing – I know this is difficult, but if you do want this to be elegant, try to resist the urge to make smiley face patterns with the grape halves. (This took all my might.)
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