Last night was our first visit to the River, but I have a feeling it will be the first of many. It’s not glamorously located, being in a bit of Miami between Downtown and Brickell where the skyscrapers haven’t quite reached yet, but that is all to the good: at last, we’ve found another place like Doraku where attitude doesn’t take precedence over food and speedy service. And it’s handy for us when the bridge to Miami Beach is stuffed with traffic.
The feel inside is very much welcoming local restaurant, with smart modern decor that isn’t over-the-top and (joy) comfy chairs. We were seated straightaway and our waiter was attentive without being overpowering. Unlike yesterday’s awful visit to BLT, he actually made sure the jetlagged kid at our table got his food as soon as possible. The other diners seemed to be more Miami locals settling in for a good meal with friends and family (rather than shouty Euro tourists, and I say that as one of them). It was an entirely relaxed experience – casual dress, efficient service (thank god), very reasonable prices.
The menu is long but sensible: about 10 different sorts of oysters; a raw bar (ceviche, tartares etc); starters (crab cake a-likes). There are both fish, meat and carby pasta/rice mains as well as a brilliant fish a-la-carte option in which you can have, it seems, any fish from the normal menu simply grilled/steamed/panfried with your choice of sauce. There was also a specials menu with today’s oysters and (I think) about three starters and three mains. The provenance of the fish and shellfish was written on the menu – always better than eating an unidentified white thing from container number 3.
Last night we had a selection of oysters which were gorgeous. Then tuna and snapper tartares, which had been pretty heavily flavoured (tuna was spicy, snapper hot with yuzu) and which came with generous helpings of plaintain and potato crisps. Maine lobster was huuuuge and paella generous with the fish and seafood. Snapper fillets were beautifully plated and paired with lemon vinaigrette, avocado/heirloom tomato salad and more plaintain crisps. No one seemed to mind. Passionfruit sorbet was very decent, and homemade chocolate truffles delicious. It was all simple food and flavours, presented well – a total pleasure and we’re looking forward to trying more.
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