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Alsatian apple tart

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Mr. R&R doesn’t cook. No interest whatsoever, in fact left to his own devices he cheerily admits to existing on tomatoes, bread and shop-bought ice-cream with possibly the odd gricia pasta (olive oil and pancetta) in extremis. So he has a bit of difficulty describing food in technical terms – all he remembered about the [...]

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Tiramisu: the original Italian recipe

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Well, not really. The title is a complete misnomer: there is no original recipe for this dessert. Even in Italy, everyone thinks their particular version is the best and most authentic. And actually, if the internets are to be believed, tiramisu is only the latest version of a long line of marscapone-based desserts which was [...]

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Baked fish with potatoes, thyme and olives

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I’m not sure there’s an actual fishmonger in Nassau, but we don’t need one: the sea here is just teeming with life. Mr. R&R and I now invariably paddleboard, rather than drive, to the beach and from our high vantage point we see spotted eagle rays, trigger fish, lobster, barracuda, sharks big and small… Yesterday [...]

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White gazpacho

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Essay finished, thank goodness. As per usual, it was cutting the buggering thing down that took the time – art history just sort of spews out of me in a gushy, adjective-riddled fountain of merde. If I ever get around to writing a book, I’m going to need a ruthless editor… So, as I’ve been [...]

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Summer pasta

In the middle of an essay on Renaissance art during the reformation (2500 words, due Friday, it’ll be fine…) the fridge has started to look rather bare. So I made this “fridge-ends” pasta rather out of desperation than anything else – it turned out to be stellar. The colour is pastel washed-out summer sun – [...]

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Roast plum sorbet

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An incredibly easy sorbet from the brilliant River Cottage Every Day: a kilo of plums are stoned and halved and roasted in a hot oven with 100g sugar, 250ml water and a teaspoon of vanilla essence until soft and blistered. Then they’re rubbed through a sieve, chilled and churned in an ice-cream machine. The colour [...]

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Lime and pistachio swiss roll

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I keep meaning to establish an international code to communicate with other kiteboarders as to the nature of the marine wildlife that you’ve just encountered. The wind and the distance you have to keep away to not get the kites tangled up mean that handsignals are the only option, but we really need to set [...]

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The cult of tramezzino

This dapper gentleman is Gabriele D’Annunzio, born in Pescara, Italy in 1863. D’Annunzio had an extraordinary life by any measure: a published poet at sixteen, he was a prolific author and journalist, wrote for Sarah Bernhardt, collaborated with Debussy, had a scandalously public love affair, spawned the original NSFW urban myth, fled Italy to avoid [...]

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Stuffed vine leaves

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I will admit to getting rather overexcited when new products appear on the island. Just the other day I was busted at Lyford Cay City Market squealing in front of a jar of sun-dried tomatoes. (This, coupled with my rather eccentric appearance – dragged through several hedges, not just backwards, but actively kicking and screaming, [...]

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Hazelnut meringues with gianduia crème patisserie

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This week has been rather dangerous in my kitchen. Firstly I made my very own homage to the Gulf of Mexico oil spill by creating a large volcano while attempting pomegranate molasses. The thick black lava exploded and took a clean-up crew of one a good hour to prise off the hob. Then I learned [...]

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Orange and polenta cake

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I am a total recipe nerd and use Evernote to keep everything organized. I clip in recipes I find on blogs and websites, preserving their source URL, as well as keep long lists of what we’ve eaten at home everyday and ideas of things to try. Perfect for those “what on earth am I going [...]

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Chocolate malt ice-cream

Simon Hopkinson’s book Roast Chicken And Other Stories is deceptively good. It’s a slim volume, serif, centred text dotted with the odd illustration, full of proper dishes. No celebrity chef “lifestyle” photos to draw you in, no ordering by season or supermarket for busy people – Hopkinson drops you right into alphabetical, ingredient-led cooking at [...]

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