From the category archives:

Cool food, hot summer

Ice-creams, froyos, sorbets, salads… all that refreshes when outside sizzles.

White gazpacho

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Essay finished, thank goodness. As per usual, it was cutting the buggering thing down that took the time – art history just sort of spews out of me in a gushy, adjective-riddled fountain of merde. If I ever get around to writing a book, I’m going to need a ruthless editor… So, as I’ve been [...]

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Roast plum sorbet

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An incredibly easy sorbet from the brilliant River Cottage Every Day: a kilo of plums are stoned and halved and roasted in a hot oven with 100g sugar, 250ml water and a teaspoon of vanilla essence until soft and blistered. Then they’re rubbed through a sieve, chilled and churned in an ice-cream machine. The colour [...]

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Lime and pistachio swiss roll

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I keep meaning to establish an international code to communicate with other kiteboarders as to the nature of the marine wildlife that you’ve just encountered. The wind and the distance you have to keep away to not get the kites tangled up mean that handsignals are the only option, but we really need to set [...]

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Stuffed vine leaves

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I will admit to getting rather overexcited when new products appear on the island. Just the other day I was busted at Lyford Cay City Market squealing in front of a jar of sun-dried tomatoes. (This, coupled with my rather eccentric appearance – dragged through several hedges, not just backwards, but actively kicking and screaming, [...]

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Chocolate malt ice-cream

Simon Hopkinson’s book Roast Chicken And Other Stories is deceptively good. It’s a slim volume, serif, centred text dotted with the odd illustration, full of proper dishes. No celebrity chef “lifestyle” photos to draw you in, no ordering by season or supermarket for busy people – Hopkinson drops you right into alphabetical, ingredient-led cooking at [...]

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Intense chocolate orange ice-cream and a yoghurt sorbet

When I lived in Italy, I didn’t eat chocolate. The reasons for this seemed to be physical, a food intolerance that caused awful headaches. But, walking past my local gelateria every day, I used to crave chocolate gelato, practically to the point of slobbering on their windows. The other flavours were incredibly good – the [...]

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Ginger ice-cream with caramelized pecans

Ladeez and gents, my kitchen has been pimped. If it were a car, it would have decals, blue running lights and tyres large enough to squash sea-lions. It is a granite and steel monstrosity. It is all Bosch, all the time. It is indecently large. So large, in fact, that I have misplaced nearly everything [...]

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Instant zen papaya and lime salad

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This is the way Mr. R&R ate papaya while travelling through Africa, and apparently it’s incredibly good for the stomach. It is certainly very calming to prepare – the beautiful sunset colours of the papaya and glistening ebony seeds, a bit of gentle slicing and squeezing. And it’s delicious to eat, the soothing banana and yoghurt [...]

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Pasta with zucchini, almonds and fresh herbs

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I don’t know about you, but I always have a couple of courgettes at the bottom of the fridge, hiding in plain sight like beached torpedoes. It’s my fault – as one of the few vegetables that arrive in Nassau, I’m bored of them even by the time I get to the checkout desk. But this [...]

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Chicken, orange and almond salad

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Mum and Dad are in New Zealand at the moment, where Dad is on a jolly invitational lectureship, wowing the Kiwis, no doubt, in all matters mathematical philosophy and logic. Mum seems to be settling in too, in a whirl of coffee mornings, farmers markets and local Sauvignon. I think she’ll take to retirement quite [...]

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Three deliciously controversial gelato flavours: toasted sesame and butterscotch; brown bread; beetroot stracciatella ice-creams

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Mr R&R would like it known upfront that he’s morally opposed to this post. It deeply offends his Italian sensibilities, history, culture, in fact everything that he stands for, and is an affront to the metric tonnes of ice-cream he’s consumed so far, and and insult to the hard-working families producing authentic gelati the length [...]

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A light gelato with green tea, hazelnut, mocha and ginger variations

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The following is my standard ice-cream recipe – a light custard base which will take infinite variations – flavour the milk and cream before cooking, stir in liquid ingredients into the custard or add chunky pieces just as the ice-cream is nearly done churning. I worked on this recipe (well, it didn’t really feel like [...]

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